Sun Kissed Cheeks with a Smell of Smoked Salmon

I want to apologize for dropping off the radar for the last two weeks. A lot has been happening, one adventure in particular of which I will tell you about...

For the last 6 months I have been alone, accomplishing my own life without my other half, my partner Dane.  I have been to Germany, moved to Seattle, started a new school, and have made new friends, all without him. My life has been pretty organized, regimented, and lacking the outdoor adventure that usually fills my life when Dane is around. However, last week Saturday I received a call. “We are finished and on our way back home,” Dane said,  “and guess what, we are flying you up to Sitka on Monday to meet us!!” The excitement in his voice lingered in my ear; I couldn’t believe that in less than 48 hours I would be on my way to see Dane.

Two days later, the captain’s girlfriend and I walk down the ramp into the Sitka arrivals terminal. With full packs and bags filled to the brim with warm clothes and all the local fresh fruits, veggies, and even farm fresh eggs from Bellingham, we run towards our hard-worked, rugged, and radiantly smiling fisherman. Nervous and excited I take a deep breath and run into his arms. Every year this moment is different, but always pure and sweet like the taste of summer’s first fresh strawberries. Once again I feel safe and at home.

As quickly as we arrived, no sooner do we depart on our new sea-bound home, the Western Freedom, a 58 ft aluminum long-lining commercial fishing boat. As long as Dane has been working as a fisherman, I have not had the chance to experience his second life without me. After a long day of travel, I quickly fall asleep into my first slumber at sea.

At 4:30 A.M., the captain and old friend Garrett Elwood stumbles down into the focsle hole to wake us up; it is time to switch out the wheel watching shifts. Sleepy eyed, Dane takes the captain’s chair, and I lay down on the day bunk next to him. Everything is dark, but the wheelhouse is lit up with multiple computer screens, and a dim red light gives everything a secretive glow. Now all we do is watch and listen in the quiet of the night. I close my heavy eyelids, to rest my eyes, and before I know it its already 6:30 A.M. and the light of dawn is creeping in thru the windows. Dane, still awake, drinking his morning coffee, and reading a book, looks over his shoulder and smiles at me, “Good morning beautiful, sleep well?” With a small grin on my face, I nod. “Sorry that I fell asleep.” I slowly get up and sit on his lap, curled up like a little cat. Content and cozy, we finish the last few hours of wheel watch together.

Our adventures led us to many places, and through many different weather patterns. Our first afternoon at sea, we stopped at Baranof Island, an island famous for its beautiful hot springs right next to a roaring river. It was raining, but that just allowed us to sit in the hot springs even longer. The minerals and the warmth thoroughly relaxed our sore muscles. As a group we decided to extend our journey half a day and stay overnight to enjoy another early morning soak. Relaxed and fully rested, on Wednesday morning, the four of us pulled in the ropes and set off on our long journey to Bellingham.

Weather can change from one minute to the next at sea. I knew we would probably see a little rough weather, with rain and high winds, but little did I know exactly what I was in for. After an afternoon passing through Frederik Sound, riding some 3 ft rollers, feeling nauseous, and stumbling around the cabin, I thought I was weathered in for life on the boat. Yet what was to come the following day, made the previous afternoon seem like a breeze. As we entered Clarence Strait Thursday afternoon, the winds hit highs of 40 knots, with swells of 6ft. All of a sudden the swells hit all at once rocking the boat back and forth. It was a thrill, like a roller coaster reaching its height and plummeting to the ground every 10 seconds. Within a blink of my eye, the boat had thrown me across the wheelhouse to the floor. Immediately my heart rate shot through the roof, and the look on my face must have shown the terror in my eyes. Where we going to make it through this alive, I asked myself? It is pretty funny how ones imagination can carry you into another world within an instant. I looked up at Dane as he rushed up the stairs to the wheelhouse, and I heard the urgency in his voice. “Garrett, I’m putting in the stabilizers.” “Roger that” replied the captain. Once Dane returned windblown and soaked through and through, he looked at me with a grin on his face, and I knew we were okay. No SOS, no survival suits, no freezing waters. PHEW!! After a  few more hours we crossed over to Tongass Narrows, where relatively calm waters awaited us. With a last minute weather update of incoming 50 knot winds with gusts up to 70 knots, we decided to wait out the weather and moor up in Ketchikan for one night.

Ketchikan is one of the rainiest cities in North America. It is has a big commercial fishing port and makes most of its income during the summer months when huge cruise ships unload tourists for 4 hour Ketchikan shopping sprees. Torrential rains and winds greeted us as we stepped off the Western Freedom Thursday evening. We wined and dined that night, in Ketchikan’s Bar Harbor Restaurant. Happy to have found a warm and tasty kitchen ready to serve us, we collectively rooted for team freedom. With our right hands in we yelled, “Go Freedom!” However, my head was spinning. I felt as though the whole room was moving, and my brain was being smashed from both sides. What was going on with me? Here we are with delicious wine and everything from ribs to Alaskan scallops spread across the table. Why do I have to force myself to be in good spirits? I found out later that this feeling is called “land drunk”. After a certain time at sea, your body has a hard time to find equilibrium after returning to solid land. The only thing that could help me was movement and fresh air. As soon as we returned to the boat I quickly retired to the focsle hole. Although my freshly made blackberry crumble was calling my name along with a good game of Banana Grams, I decided that some much needed shut eye would be the best medicine for me.

After all had a good nights rest in Ketchikan, we got an early start south. The weather had passed us by, and calm seas were awaiting us. What a treat, a full day of travel with sunshine! When the sun is shining the spirits are high. Everyone has a silly grin on his or her face, and life feels like it couldn’t get any better. The scenery as we pass through the inside passage from Alaskan waters into Canadian, is absolutely beautiful. As I stand looking out my window, while working on removing hooks from their long line fishing gear, I see humpback whales breach for air, and birds soaring through the bright blue skies. The temperatures have reached a high of 70 and life is good. I wave to the Alaskan ferry that passed us by, and smile as the passengers happily wave back. My favorite spot is the open walkway on the right side of the Western Freedom. It is the perfect perch to feel the afternoon sun on my face, yet be as close to the water as possible. My feet dangle over the edge, and the breeze tickles my cheeks. The sun warms my chest, and I start to drift off as the XM radio station plays jazz in the background. This is the life, right? So many people would pay to be where I am right now. Garrett walks over to me and hands me a fancy cocktail in a mason jar, whisky, cold coffee, Irish cream, and all topped with whipped cream. Oh, and lets not forget the blue straw! What could be better than to spend the morning watching whales, and then spending the afternoon lazily reading and drinking a fancy cocktail in the sun? Dane comes up from behind me and give me a hug and a kiss on the neck…yup that just tops it all off!

Oh, and I forgot to mention we have even made our own at sea gym. With a yoga mat, a rope, some heavy anchors, and a hang board attached to a beam, we are all set for any sort of work out you can dream of. Want some cardio? Jump rope for half an hour. Want to do some abs or stretching? Then enjoy the beautiful view on the top deck on the yoga mat. Want to build your arms? Then do some pull-ups on the hang board, or lift some small anchors to replace dumbbells. We got what you need! All in the fresh air, in the sun, and in complete nature. 

We usually fend for ourselves for breakfast and lunch, but dinner is a communal event. Dane and I cook, or Garrett and his girlfriend take the role as chef and sous-chef, either way there is always too much good food, and wine to be had. We have had steaks, black cod, halibut, and octopus, cooked, brined, marinated, grilled, or poached, you name it. Everything turns out delicious and different. It is a foodie paradise aboard the Western Freedom, even Martha Stewart would approve!

Sometimes I feel the urge to pinch myself, as if to remind me what a dream we are living. The real life is only a couple days away beckoning our return. I smile and push it out of my mind a little longer. These days are purely beautiful, no stress, no guilt, no responsibilities, just a lot of love, delicious food, friendship, and the abundance of mother nature in its purest unadulterated form. After a full week of fun and adventure, two fisherman and their girlfriends arrive sun kissed, windblown, and smelling of smoked salmon, into the Bellingham marina. WELCOME HOME BOYS! 

As a little taste of our trip I want to share something with you, something that has been shared with me, and will always remind me of this wonderful experience Dane and Garrett have given me. It is a recipe for pickled black cod. You may be weary and cautious, and you may be curious, but let me persuade you to try it yourself. It is not only a delicacy but it is also very delicious. As a true and tried traditional recipe of the Elwood family, it has surpassed all taste tests, and won every time. If you have mixed feelings initially, allow it to grow on you. It is a new flavor, and it is intense, but it is unique and different in a very good way. For any foodie that loves seafood, this will be a sure hit. I recommend eating pickled black cod with crackers, in sandwiches, or even as part of a hors d' oeuvres plate.

Pickled Black Cod
Makes 2 quart sized mason jars (about eight 8oz mason jars)
Ingredients:
Pickling Salt
8 cups cool filtered water
1 egg
8 cups of cubed fish (Black Cod)
2 cups white vinegar, plus additional for brining 
1 1/2 cups organic sugar
1 cup white wine (chardonnay)
2 Tblsp pickling spices
1 large onion, sliced
1/4 cup organic lemon juice

Directions:
1.  Place 8 cups filtered water into a large ceramic or glass bowl (do not use a metal bowl) and mix in enough pickling salt to float an egg in the water. 
2.  Brine the fish for 24 hours in the salt water.
3.  After 24 hours have passed rinse the fish well in fresh water, and drain. 
4.  Cover the fish with white vinegar and soak for 24 hours. Rinse well and drain. 
5.  Heat sugar, 2 cups white vinegar, and spices to a boil and allow to simmer 10 minutes.
6.  Cool to room temperature. You do not want the brine to be warm because this will change the texture of the fish. 
7.  Sanitize the mason jars by steaming them in a large pot. First fill the large pot with water, set in the mason jars, and then heat to a steady simmer for 10 minutes. Remove the jars from hot water and place onto a clean kitchen towel. They are now ready to be filled.
7.  Once the brine mixture is cooled, add the wine and lemon juice. 
8.  Layer the onions and fish into the mason jars and cover with cooled brine, including spices. 
9.  Store in refrigerator for 3 days prior to serving. 

Optional: Add a chile to each of the mason jars to add a spicy kick.
If you are interested in ordering fish from the 2013 season, feel free to contact the Western Freedom.

Elderflower Power

It was a sunny warm day at the Bodensee and the town of Langenargen was bustling with people. The Match Race attracts people from all over the world to watch sport sailors race across the lake in high-class sailboats. Every year the event takes place along the promenade, with beer gardens, music, food, and fancy cars. It is an event that attracts the locals, the posh, and the sailing folk alike.

I have zero clue about sailboats, nor do I care much for the race, but still it was interesting to see how it was done. Spinnakers billowed from the sailboats to carry them across the lake and back, and agile sailing brought winners to the shore. I lazily sat in the sun with a nice cool beer, and took some photos in remembrance.

After a few hours of sitting in the sun, I decided to venture away from the crowds and from the town Langenargen itself. Today would be the perfect day to harvest elderflower for some elderflower syrup. I grabbed my bike, a canvas bag, and a scissor, and off I was. I stopped at every elderflower bush I saw and picked the five most beautiful clusters. I made sure to take only side roads and trails with little to no traffic to insure that my flowers were clean of toxins and dirt. My canvas bag was filled within an hour with beautiful fragrant flowers. Now off to the kitchen!!

Here in Germany, elderflower syrup, also known as holunderblütensirup, has made its way into fancy cocktails, drinks, and desserts. Its floral aroma is very unique and pleasant on a hot summer day. The typical way the syrup is used is in a drink called Hugo. It is a mixture of elder blossom syrup, prosecco, and a splash of sparkling water with fresh mint leaves and ice.  Absolutely refreshing and delicious…

I have also used it in fresh berry tarts. For example, in the strawberry tart, you can substitute the syrup for the sugar in either the custard or in the clear glaze. Also, you can add it in a simple yogurt dessert to add a floral note. It is versatile, unique, and elderflowers have some wonderful health benefits to boost.

Many people may have noticed elderflowers or berries in herbal immune boosting teas. This is because elderflowers can help reduce mucous due to seasonal colds, allergies and hay fever, as well as keep the immune system stimulated.  Elderflowers also have known benefits in digestive irregularities, may it be diarrhea or constipation and can help detoxify the blood. The flowers and leaves themselves can also be used to soothe burns or dry skin.

If you want to get creative with this wonderful flower please try this delicious elixir, I promise you will not be disappointed! It makes a great gift too.

Elderflower Syrup

Makes about 2.5 liters

Ingredients:

50 Elderflower Bulbs (rinsed)

1.5 L filtered water

1.5 Kilo Organic Sugar (or honey)

2 Organic Lemons

2 Organic Oranges

30 gram Citric Acid

Directions:

1.   Heat water and sugar until sugar is dissolved.

2.  Meanwhile rinse the flowers to remove bugs and dust, and clip away the branches and leaves. You only want the flowers and the tiny stems they are on. Put the cleaned flowers into a large pot

3.  Zest and slice both the lemon and oranges and put into the pot with elderflowers.

4.   Pour the warmed sugar water over the flowers and citrus.

5.  Sprinkle in the citric acid and stir well until all flowers and citrus are under the level of the sugar water.

6.  Cover and stir occasionally. Allow the mixture to sit a minimum of 24 hours and a max of 48 hours.

7.  Strain mixture through a muslin cloth and then through fine sieves to remove any zest or flower particles.

8.  Pour into clean, boiled canning jars or bottles. Seal and keep refrigerated. 

Optional: Fresh ginger root is also a nice addition in place of the orange. Also, you can keep the orange and lemon slices for dessert garnishes later.

Rain, Rain, Go Away....

After being inside all morning, I finally had enough. The weather has been cold and wet, never passing 10 degrees celsius. I had hoped that after breakfast things might warm up some more, and the sun might peak through, but as the newspaper said, it will continue to rain and perhaps even snow. I have been looking forward to a warm German spring, but it seems that the good ol' Pacific Northwest is getting more sunshine than here. Surprising...

Anyhow, I put on my boots, grabbed my umbrella and headed outside for some fresh air and a fresh perspective. I put in my headphones and and pressed play on my Ipod. Wailin' Jenny's is usually always on repeat, I rarely listen to anything else. For some reason their melodies bring me at ease, like none other, soft, upbeat, and harmonious. I quickly found my pace, and headed out toward the fruit fields. I passed only a few, most on bike, some on foot, all bundled up against the weather. Within minutes I had passed the town center and made my way along a gravel path through the apple and pear fields. Young nettles were everywhere, washed clean by the constant drizzling rain. They looked perfect, bright green and strong without any slight damage to the leaves. I couldn't pass up the moment, I had to harvest some for lunch! Luckily I had brought a bag along and found a handkerchief in my pocket. With my left hand covered by my long sleeve and the handkerchief in my right, I carefully picked the top youngest leaves of the nettles and put them into my bag. Within a few minutes I had gathered enough to make us a delicious lunch. A wild nettle frittata would be wafting through the apartment soon!

Nettles are originally from Northern Europe but are now found all over the world. They have been used for hundreds of years as a medicinal herb. Nettles, with high amounts of boron and silicon, are best known for their ability to ease pain in sore muscles and in joints due to arthritis and gout. Their diuretic properties also make nettles great for liver cleansing and detox programs. If you have hay fever nettles may also help reduce an allergic response due to anti-histamines found in the leaves.

In order to remove the sting, you can either boil, steam, sauté, or bake them. Often nettles are found in disturbed areas, such as along hiking trails, clear cuts, roads, etc. Make sure to wash them prior to cooking to remove any dirt or dust they have gathered. I recommend gathering them as far away from traffic as possible to make sure they are clean. 

With high levels of protein, Vitamins A, C, and K, and minerals iron, phosphorous, magnesium, and calcium, nettles are a great substitution to your typical greens. I have used them in soups, omelets, frittatas, pesto, and simply sauteed alone with butter salt and pepper. My personal favorite it to steam the nettles, topping them off with a poached egg, a drizzle of olive oil and a sprinkle of sea salt and pepper.

Today I will share with you my recipe for a wild nettle frittata, always a welcome meal in my home. Accompanied by a salad it makes a perfect light lunch, although often used as a breakfast or brunch dish.

Wild Nettle Frittata
Makes 4 servings
Ingredients:
4 eggs
3 cups of nettles (washed and chopped)
1 medium tomato (sliced thin)
1 spring onion
1 zucchini
1 clove garlic (finely chopped)
1/3 cup milk
1/4 cup goat milk feta
2 Tbsp fresh chopped basil
2 Tbsp extra virgin olive oil
sea salt and pepper to taste

Directions:
1.  Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Heat oil in an oven proof pan ( I used a 9 inch cast iron pan). Cut the spring onion and zucchini into small chunks and sauté in the oil over medium heat. Sprinkle a little salt and pepper.
2.  After the onion and zucchini have sauteed for about 5 minutes add the nettles and reduce heat and cover until nettles are wilted.
3. Meanwhile, whisk the eggs until combined in a medium bowl. Add the basil, garlic clove, milk, and feta and stir with wooden spoon. Salt and pepper to taste.
4.  Pour the egg mixture over the nettles. Use wooden spoon to gently mix the nettles evenly throughout the pan.
5. Top the mixture with tomato slices and sprinkle with additional feta if desired.
6. Put into oven for about 30-40 minutes until the egg mixture has set. Serve warm.

Side Note: I served the frittata with a mixed sweet pepper salad and a balsamic vinaigrette. If eaten with breakfast or brunch replace salad with fresh bread and butter.

Wild Leek Soup with Mâche Salad

Langenargen is beautiful when the sun shines. As of late, the weather has been a roller-coaster with temperatures rising and then dropping by 10 degrees celsius every other day. When the sun is out everyone is walking the promenade enjoying the warm temperatures, as well as the glorious views. However when the sun is gone, and the rain has come with winter temperatures, everyone hides in their warm homes or cafes, leaving the town very empty.Yet these highs and lows are common of April weather. Frustrating for those on spring break, the weather is perfect for the plants and flowers in the Lake Constance region.

The Swiss Alps

Wild leeks, also known as ramps, are now found in every shaded forest here in Germany. They cover the ground like a green blanket, waiting for the locals to harvest them. As the start of spring weather arrives so do the wild leeks, and all the health benefits they carry along.

Fresh wild leeks (ramps)

High in sulfur containing compounds and flavanoids, wild leeks are great for cancer prevention and for boosting the immune system. In addition they are high in Vitamin A and C, both antioxidants, and Vitamin  K, which helps the clotting of blood. Wild leeks have been used for hundreds of years as a medicinal plant in blood tonics, for ease in digestion, and even for atherosclerosis.

In order to harvest these wonderfully healthy and flavorful spring treats, you must bring with you a small shovel, some garden gloves, a basket, and wear long pants and sleeves. Ticks are often found in the forests of Germany and can cause serious diseases, therefore make sure to dress properly. Also, wild leeks can easily be mistaken for Lily of the Valley, which is very toxic when eaten. To be on the safe side, please make sure to educate yourself or go with someone who has prior knowledge. If you are uncomfortable with foraging in the woods, you will most likely find these treats at local farmers markets.

Wild leeks have a strong garlic/onion taste, making them a great addition to many savory recipes. You can use them in soups, in omelets, in casseroles, pretty much anywhere you would commonly use spinach.

     

Mâche Salad

Today I chose to use the wild leeks in a soup served with a delicious mâche (lamb's lettuce) salad. The whole table looked like spring with the fresh green color of the soup and salad.

                             

Wild Leek and Potato Soup
Makes 4 servings
Ingredients:
1 bundle Wild Leeks (washed and roughly chopped)
3 medium sized potatoes, washed and diced
2 shallots, diced
2 slices prosciutto, cut into small pieces (optional)
750 ml vegetable broth
100 ml cream
1/2 lemon juice
2 Tblsp olive oil/coconut oil/butter
1 Tblsp honey
splash apple cider vinegar
salt and pepper

Directions:
1.  Heat oil in a medium soup pot and add the shallots, prosciutto, and potatoes. Sprinkle with salt and pepper and allow the shallots to turn glassy and the prosciutto to turn crispy. Stir with a wooden spoon.
2.  Add the wild leeks to the pot and allow them to saute until wilted. Fill the pot with vegetable broth until the potatoes are covered. Allow the soup to simmer for about 15 minutes.
3.  Once the potatoes are soft they are done and you can remove the pot from the burner. Place the pot onto a hot pad and with an emersion blender, puree the soup.
4. Place the pureed soup back onto the burner on low heat and stir in the cream. Then add the lemon juice, honey, and apple cider vinegar. Add salt and pepper to taste.

Serve with bread and butter...and of course a salad.

Side Note: To garnish the soup you can top with additional sauteed onions, croutons, or even a drizzle of cream.